I'm Chris, owner and shaper at Daily Bread Surfboards. I made my first foam board over 30 years ago, I wish I still had a photo. These days I shape custom hollow wooden surfboards on the Mendip Hills in the South West of England.
After 25 years of running a small craft beer brewery I dug my rail into the wave face of life and decided to head in a different direction. Daily Bread Surfboards is about trusting God to provide enough for each day. The famous line in the Lord's Prayer encourages Christians not to rely too much on their own strength, so that is what I am trying to do. So far so good.
I get great satisfaction from turning a few scruffy looking planks of wood into something both practical and beautiful. Each part of the process is straightforward enough but the feeling I get as the polisher stops rotating and there is nothing left to do, is totally fulfilling. And surfing itself is a sublime experience. I mean, think about it, to harness a pulse of fluid energy with a plank of wood (or foam!) and then travel with this energy, responding instinctively to it, using all of your body, is a remarkable thing.
So from my office made from reclaimed pallets in the garden, I take each board, each day, each wave, one at a time. That's plenty for me.